Techniques: Enamel

Briar Rose Arts & Crafts Pendant

OMAR RAMSDEN & ALWYN CARR, LONDON (worked 1898-1918)
Briar Rose Arts & Crafts Pendant
Silver Enamel Garnet

H 6.10 cm (2.40 in) | W 3.90 cm (1.54 in) | L 44.00 cm (17.32 in)

Origin British, c. 1910
Case Fitted Case
Condition Very good
Weight 25.90 Grams
Beautiful Briar Rose pendant in silver, enamel & garnet. The three drops are also set with Victorian cut garnets

Literature:
cf. Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition, Elyse Zorn Karlin, 1993, page 85
Silver Jewelry Designs, Nancy N. Schiffer, 1996, p. 89

Source: Tadema Gallery

Gold Egyptian Revival Scarab Brooch

[Sold via Kentshire.com, no longer viewable. Nothing further known.]

Plique-a-Jour Enamel Egyptian Revival Scarab Brooch

With a wingspan of 4 and 3/4 inches, this soaring Egyptian Revival scarab brooch – circa 1920s – glows with translucent turquoise blue and shaded green plique-a-jour enamel feathers. Crafted in 800 silver (possibly German or Austrian origin) – exotically striking and beautiful.

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Egyptian-Revival Faience and Jeweled Brooch

Magnificent and Rare Egyptian-Revival Faience and Jeweled Brooch, Cartier, London

Designed as an Egyptian fan, or flabellum, centering an ancient green glazed faience bust of the goddess Sekhmet, depicted with a solar disc and a uraeus (cobra) upon her head, set against a lapis lazuli sky twinkling with diamond stars bordered by a black enamel aureole and repeating diamond-set stylized lotus motif, all surmounting a stylized lotus blossom; set in platinum and 18 karat gold with a total of 11 single-cut and 89 old European-cut diamonds; the back of the brooch fitted with an 18 karat gold crook, a symbol of state power in Egypt when held by the pharaohs in conjunction with a flail, placed as the connecting support element for the faience relic, signed Cartier Londres, numbered S.L 7353; circa 1923. With original fitted box stamped Cartier.

Exhibited
French Industrial Exposition, Grand Central Palace, New York, New York, April 22-May 3, 1924.

Literature
The Illustrated London News, January 26, 1924, “The ‘Tutankhamen’ Influence in Modern Jewelry,” which includes this brooch and indicates the range of pieces incorporating ancient fragments produced by Cartier London in the year and a half since the opening of Tutankhamen’s tomb in November 1922.

Cartier: 1900-1939 by Judy Rudoe, pages 136-138.

The Impossible Collection: The 100 Most Important Jewels of the Twentieth Century by Vivienne Becker, plate 20.

Catalogue Note
Deriving her name from the ancient Egyptian word ‘sekhem,’ or ‘powerful one,’ Sekhmet was depicted as a lioness. A solar deity, said to be the daughter of the sun god Ra, she was the warrior goddess and the goddess of healing for Upper Egypt, the protector of the pharaohs, and it was believed that her breath created the desert.

This is one of two brooches depicting the top of an Egyptian fan that were made by Cartier London in 1923. The other was sold at Sotheby’s New York Magnificent Jewels auction on December 4, 2007, lot 273.

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Egyptian-Revival Jeweled Fan Brooch

Egyptian-Revival Jeweled Fan Brooch, Cartier, London, 1923
Composed of an Egyptian glazed steatite plaque of semicircular shape, circa 600 B.C., inscribed with hieroglyphs, the border of papyrus and lotus motifs decorated with pear-shaped cabochon sapphires and square segments of onyx and enamel within a ground of pavé-set old European-cut and single-cut diamonds, the base centering a stylized lotus blossom similarly set with old European-cut, single-cut and rose-cut diamonds and accented with 2 kite-shaped cabochon sapphires and a band of black enamel, mounted in platinum and gold, signed Cartier, Londres, numbered 7300. With original signed case.

Literature
An archive photograph of this brooch appears in the exhibition catalogue Cartier: 1900-1939, Judy Rudoe, p. 138, fig. 66. The caption under the photograph states that the inscription relates to Mentuemhat, mayor of Thebes.

Catalogue Note
The reverse of the faience segment is applied with a gold plaque inscribed with the following: “Overseer of the Priests, Overseer of the Gate of the Foreign Countries, The Priest of Thebes, Mentu-Em-Hat, The Son of the Priest of Amun, The Prince of Thebes, Nesptah The Overseer of the Two Houses of the Soul, Priests of the Tomb of This Priest.”

Auction Link | Found via Jewels du Jour

Egyptian Revival Brooch/Pendant

An archaeological revival gold and enamel brooch/pendant, by Robert Phillips, circa 1865
Set to the centre with a raised scarab rendered in scarlet guilloché enamel with black enamel spot and stripe detail, between a pair of finely modelled rearing gold cobras with black enamel decoration, suspended from a detachable gold and black enamel coiled cobra suspensory loop, terminating with a later burnt sienna guilloché enamel amphora drop, glazed compartment to reverse, detachable brooch fitting, unsigned, some minor enamel losses, pendant length 6.4cm, width 3.4cm, fitted case by Phillips, 23 Cockspur St, London

Footnotes
In mid 19th century Britain, interest in Egyptian artefacts was considerable. The Thebes Jewels, discovered in 1859 by Auguste Mariette, were exhibited in London in 1863 and contemporary accounts in The Times describe the extraordinary array of jewels and record the public amazement at the spectacle. The exhibition coincided with a trip made by the Prince of Wales to Egypt which culminated in a tour up the Nile to Thebes. Upon his return to London the Prince commissioned a suite of jewellery from Robert Phillips replicating the scarab jewels he had seen at Thebes. The parure was a gift for his bride, Princess Alexandra of Denmark and on the marble bust sculpted by Mary Thornycroft to celebrate the marriage, she wears one of the brooches. The marble was much copied and became widely known. In response to this public awareness Robert Phillips marketed various versions of the Thebes suite for sale. The brooch pendant offered here is a fine example of one of these rare jewels.

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Earring with Nike Driving a Two-Horse Chariot

Earring with Nike driving a two-horse chariot

Greek, Northern Greek, Late Classical or Early Hellenistic Period, about 350–325 B.C.
Height: 5cm (1 15/16in.) Weight: 15.8 gm (0.03 lb.)
Gold and enamel

Earring in form of Nike driving a two-horse chariot (biga). The figures are modeled in the round and form a pendant suspended from a disc in the shape of a honeysuckle palmette. Wearing a belted chiton (tunic), a full-length skirt, and several items of jewelry, Nike leans forward, her left hand pulling on the reins of the horses, whose front legs rear sharply. The features on the goddess’s face are crisp and her expression resolute, while the animals appear startled and tense. Raised as if in flight, Nike’s elaborate, feathery, and finely chased wings provide an elegant counterbalance to the dynamic composition.

The ornament is composed of more than a hundred individual elements soldered together. The bodies of the figures are crafted from gold sheet that is embellished with wirework details and small gold balls. The honeysuckle palmette is fashioned into curved petals and circular stamens outlined with fine twisted wires; remnants of enamel survive on several of the stamens. In the center of the leaf is a tear-shaped fruit encrusted with dense gold granulation. A hoop on the underside was probably attached to an ear wire, which is now missing.

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Emerald Crystal Watch

Watch set in a single Colombian emerald crystal: c. 1600

Watch, set in single large Colombian emerald crystal of hexagonal form with hinged lid. The movement and dial plate are corroded and cannot be raised out of the setting. The dial plate is enamelled in translucent green and the circular gold suspension loop and button securing the movement at the base are set with small emeralds. The suspension loop is set in a white enamelled flower, c.1610. Part of the Cheapside Hoard. The main body of the case is cut from a single piece of emerald with a lid of facetted emerald. The catch for the lid consists of a gold pin set in the base which passes through a hole in a gold tube set in the lid. The watch has a gold dial overlaid with dark green enamel through which can be seen the engraved design of radiating lines.

Date: 1576 AD – 1600 AD

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Techniques: Enamel

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