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You are here: Home / Archives for Period / Medieval

Period: Medieval

Jewelry from 400 - 1499 AD.

Italian Signet Ring circa 1300

Signet ring, probably Italian, circa 1300

Lot Details
Description
Rings from a Distinguished Spanish Collection (lots 10 and 11)

PROBABLY ITALIAN, CIRCA 1300
SIGNET RING

inscribed with a partially legible inscription: + S. DEVDONEDVBELLO (?)
gold, set with a garnet intaglio
18mm., ¾in.
ring size: K

Cataloguing
Provenance
E. Guilhou, Paris, by 1912;
Sotheby’s London, 11 December 1986, lot 202;

private collection, Spain (acquired through Spink & Sons, 1986)

Literature
Catalogue of a Collection of Ancient Rings formed by the Late E. Guilhou, Paris, 1912, p. 154, no. 1273, pl. XIX

Catalogue Note
The present signet ring comes from one of the greatest collections of rings assembled around the turn of the last century by Monsieur G. Guilhou of Paris. It is published in the 1912 catalogue (illustrated) but appears not to have been sold in the 1937 Sotheby’s sale of the Guilhou collection. Intaglios and cameos, ancient or contemporary, were often incorporated into rings in the medieval period, and, according to Martin Henig, were intended to serve as a sigillum secreti (seals of secret significance used for personal correspondence). According to Henig, such gems were prized, as is evidenced by a Statute of Edward I dated to 1300 ordering that ‘gravers or cutters of stones, and of seals shall give to each their weight of silver and gold, as near as they can, upon their fidelity’. Compare with ring in the British Museum illustrated by Dalton (op. cit.) and that exhibited as part of a private collection by Les Enluminures in 2014 (op. cit.). Note also the signet ring in the Victoria and Albert Museum London (inv. no. M.290-1962).

RELATED LITERATURE

O. M. Dalton, The Franks Bequest, Catalogue of the Finger Rings, cat. British Museum, London, 1912 pl.III; M. Henig, ‘The re-use and copying of ancient intaglios set in Medieval personal seals mainly found in England: an aspect of the Renaissance of the 12th century’, in J. Cherry and J. Robinson (eds.), Good Impressions: image and authority in medieval seals, London, 2007, pp. 25-34; S. Hindman and D. Scarisbrick, Toward an Art History of Medieval Rings: A Private Colllection, exh. cat., Les Enluminures, 2014, no. 19; . Cherry and M. Henig, ‘Intaglios Set in Medieval Seal Matrices: Indicators of Political Power and Social Status?’ in J. Cherry, J. Berenbeim and L. de Beer (eds.), Seals and Status: The Power of Objects, The British Museum, London, 2018, pp. 104-113

Condition Report
Overall the condition of the ring is good with minor dirt and wear to the surface consistent with age. There are various very minor abrasions and scratches to the gold. There are a few very slight gaps between the setting and stone.

Source: Sotheby’s

Signet ring, probably Italian, circa 1300

Signet ring, probably Italian, circa 1300

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: garnet, gold, intaglio, Italian, signet

Late Medieval Gold Ring with Hexagonal Sapphire

Late Medieval Gold Ring with Hexagonal Sapphire

Old Master Sculpture and Works of Art
09 July 2009 | 2:30 PM BST
London

English, late 14th/15th century
FINGER RING

Estimate: 8,000 — 12,000 GBP
LOT SOLD. 70,850 GBP (Hammer Price with Buyer’s Premium)

engraved gold, set with a sapphire in hexagonal collet, inscribed: JOYE SANZ FYN (joy without end) on the interior

inside diameter: 1.8cm., 7/8 in.

Provenance
Found near St. Oswald’s Church, Winwick, Cheshire

Literature
‘Ring is Real Treasure’, in The Warrington Guardian, 26 April 2008

Source link

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: engraving, gold, sapphire

Late Medieval Diamond Posy Ring

15th century diamond posy ring

A fifteenth century English ring

yellow gold, mounted with an uncut diamond crystal, of octahedral form cleaved in half in a square box-shaped bezel with chamfered edges, to a twisted cable form hoop with alternating twists of engraved cross hatching.

The diamond is of Indian origin. In the fifteenth century India was the sole source for diamonds and they were traded from the subcontinent to Venice, Antwerp and Amsterdam. The presence of a rough diamond crystal in a ring of this period is unusual. As diamonds had been cut in Europe since the early fourteenth century and by the fifteenth century point cut stones were used. The diamond in the ring has a peculiar crystal habit; it has grown irregularly, with ridges along the edges of the stone. It was probably left uncut because this unusual crystal form was prized.

Provenance:

English, circa 1460.

Discovered on 15th June 2008 by a metal detectorist in the area of Hambleton. Hambleton is a village nearby the Cistercian Abbey of Rievaulx in North Yorkshire. Treasure report no. 2008 T367. Disclaimed on 25th September 2009.

For another example of a fifteenth century ring mounted with a diamond crystal and one showing similar cabling hoop detail C.f. O.M. Dalton, Catalogue of Finger Rings in the British Museum (1912) nos. 720 & 928.

Source link

15th century diamond posy ring

chamfer |ˈCHamfər| verb [ with obj. ]
in carpentry, cut away (a right-angled edge or corner) to make a symmetrical sloping edge.

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: diamond, engraving, gold

Sapphire and Garnet Ring Brooch

Ring brooch

Ring Brooch

Date: 1250–1300
Culture: British or French
Medium: Gold, sapphires and garnets
Dimensions: Overall: 15/16 × 3/16 in. (2.4 × 0.4 cm)
Classification: Metalwork-Gold
Credit Line: Gift of Tobias Meyer and Mark Fletcher, 2013

Provenance
Found in Ringwood, Hampshire, England (in 1995); Sotheby’s, London(July 6, 2007, lot 3); Tobias Meyer and Mark Fletcher, New York (2007–2013)

Source link, The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Filed Under: Brooches & Pins, Medieval Tagged With: garnet, gold, sapphire

Late Medieval Sapphire Ring

Late Medieval Sapphire Ring

Late Medieval Sapphire Ring, 14k gold with rubbed over bezel and closed back. Circa 14th-15th century

Source unknown.

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: gold, sapphire

Medieval Diamond Finger Ring

Medieval Diamond Finger Ring

Image courtesy of Christie's.
Image courtesy of Christie’s.

From Christie’s:

Sale Title: IMPORTANT JEWELLERY
Location: London, King Street
Sale Date: Jun 15, 2006
Lot Number: 0398
Sale Number: 7240

Lot Title: AN EXTREMELY RARE MEDIAEVAL DIAMOND LOYALTY RING
Estimate: 30,000 – 50,000 British pounds
Price Realized: 84,000 British pounds – Sold After Sale

Pre-lot Text
THE PROPERTY OF A GENTLEMAN

Lot Description
AN EXTREMELY RARE MEDIAEVAL DIAMOND LOYALTY RING 
The point-cut diamond to the star and heart engraved mount, ‘V’ and ‘A’ engraved shoulders, and inscribed hoop, 14th century

Provenance
Discovered on the farmland of Manley Hall in the village of Manley in Cheshire, 19 May 2002 and filed as Treasure Trove on 17 June 2002. Manley is on the edge of Delamere Forest, which was originally the royal hunting ground of King Edward III

Lot Notes
Enamelled and engraved rings from the 14th century often fall within a tradition of mediaeval ‘love rings’ where lovers’ initials may both be engraved within the ring. However, there may also be a stronger political influence behind this ring. The use of a diamond within a ring is very unusual in the 14th century and marks this ring as an important and significant object, and possibly gift. Historically, a valuable ring may have been given as a token of love, or alternatively as a sign of allegiance. One ring, known as the ‘Verney Ring’, was given in the 17th century by Charles I to Sir Edmund Verney, one of his most loyal followers during the Civil War.

It has been noted that the ring offered here, bearing three ‘E’ initials between stars, dates to the time of Edward III during the 100 Years War. The series of Anglo-French conflicts known as the Hundred Years War dominating Edward’s reign were chiefly caused by disputes over English holdings in France and troubles between the Flemish weaving cities (allies of the English) and their French overlords. One wealthy Flemish weaving merchant, Jacob van Artevelde, emerged as a political leader against the French, forming the League of Flemish Towns in 1336 who supported Edward’s claim to the title of King of France (through his mother’s line) in 1340. Edward III and Van Artevelde were doubtlessly close. Holding the contentious position of primary English supporter within the French-ruled Ghent, Van Artevelde was assassinated in 1345, leaving a son, Philip Van Artevelde, whose godmother, Philippa of Hainault, was the wife of Edward III. In turn, Jacob Van Artevelde was godfather to Edward III’s and Philippa’s son, John of Gaunt. Philip continued the Flemish fight in his allegiance to the English King and Queen.

The motto reading across both sides of the hoop, ‘loyaute sans fin’, indicates an eternal dedication of loyalty, and together with the initials ‘V’ and ‘A’ either side of the bezel would be an appropriate dedication between the King of England and his closest Flemish supporter within the political climate of the mid fourteenth century.

 Cf. D. Scarisbrick, Historic Rings, Kodansha International, 2004, pp. 59-60, no. 146

Cf. G. Kunz, Rings for the Finger, Dover Publications, Inc., New York, 1973, p. 190

From Finds.org.uk:

One of the most splendid medieval finds to come up through the process of the Treasure Act is undoubtedly a gold and diamond ring found in Manley, Cheshire in 2002. Another ring found with coins at Thame in Oxfordshire in 1940 is similar enough in its detail to suggest a date in the late fourteenth or early fifteenth century. The design of the Manley ring is complex with decorative elements which undoubtedly had greater significance for the original owner than is apparent to us today. It is inscribed on the top “sans fin” and on the bottom “loiauté” meaning ‘unceasing loyalty’. At the back of the hoop is a central, openwork band with three letters ‘E’ juxtaposed with three stars. The inscription is sufficiently chivalric in sentiment to have been passed between men and the allure of this very high-status jewel has led to some tentative historic associations.

The repetition of three letters ‘E’ with three stars convinced the finder that the ring was associated with Edward III. He felt that the black diamond signified the Black Prince and that the ring passed between father and son. However there is no supporting evidence for a royal association either through heraldry (which is absent from the design), a known use of the motto ‘sans fin loiauté’ by Edward III or any documented allusion to Edward signifying his royal status by the use of stars. A more recent speculative line of argument associates the ring with Edward III and his Flemish supporter Jacob van Artevelde on the assumption that the two open work letters on the shoulders of the ring, ‘V’ and ‘A’, stand for ‘van’ and ‘Artevelde’, but there is no substantive reason why this should be the case. A more convincing use of initial letters is their well documented place in courtship.

The crowned heart placed beneath the diamond amplifies the notion that this might be a romantic love ring. A ring at the British Museum almost identical in construction with open-work shoulders containing individual letters spelling ‘AMOURS’ suggests that the Manley ring belongs to a wider repertoire of love jewellery produced by the same goldsmith.

Inscription: sans fin loiauté

Current location of find: Private collection, sold at Christies.
Subsequent action after recording: Returned to finder

Broad period: MEDIEVAL
Date from: AD 1350
Date to: AD 1540

Weight: 3.54 g
Diameter: 22 mm

Date(s) of discovery: Wednesday 1st May 2002

Source links and info:

  • Herepath,N (2002) LVPL2060 A MEDIEVAL FINGER RING — Finds.org.uk treasure database
  • How a treasure hunter struck gold with a mysterious ring, by ROBERT HARDMAN, Daily Mail, 12 June 2006
  • Important Jewellery, 15 June 2006 — Christie’s auction where ring was sold; lot no longer online.

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: diamond, gold

Frankish Garnet Ring

Frankish Garnet Finger Ring
Image © Metropolitan Museum of Art. Gift of J. Pierpont Morgan, 1917

Date: 7th century
Geography: Made in Northern France
Culture: Frankish
Medium: Gold, garnet cabochon
Dimensions: Overall: 13/16 x 9/16 x 5/16 in. (2.1 x 1.5 x 0.8 cm) bezel: 1/4 x 5/16 x 3/8 in. (0.7 x 0.8 x 0.9 cm)
Classification: Metalwork-Gold

Source link

Frankish Garnet Finger Ring, side view
Image © Metropolitan Museum of Art. Gift of J. Pierpont Morgan, 1917
Frankish Garnet Finger Ring, side view
Image © Metropolitan Museum of Art. Gift of J. Pierpont Morgan, 1917

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: Frankish, garnet, gold

“Loyal Desire” Sapphire and Gold Ring

Gold and sapphire ring (top view)

An important high carat gold medieval ring set with a natural irregular hexagonal cut sapphire, decorated with fine engravings and inscribed on the inside of the shank with the text ‘Loyal Desir’ which means legal or loyal desire which indicates the ring is a love token; for marriage or just a token of affection, early 15th century.

Source link

Gold and sapphire ring (side view)

Gold and sapphire ring (engraving detail)

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: engraving, gold, sapphire

Persian Turquoise Bangle

Persian turquoise bracelet

A Seljuk turquoise-set gold Bangle
Persia, 12th Century

The ridged, triangular section box-construction shank terminating in a double lion-head clasp and two set oval turquoises, the pyramidic bezel set with a glass rectangle and flanked by two set circular turquoises, a pin fitting at the base of the bezel, the shanks decorated with raised quatrefoils flanked by inscription-filled cartouches, all edges with granular decoration.

Inscriptions: repeat of al-‘izz al-da’im wa al-iqbal wa al-dawlat wa …., ‘Perpetual Glory and Prosperity and Wealth and …’

For a similar bangle in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, see M. Jenkins and M. Keene, Islamic Jewellery, New York, 1982, no. 25; for a pair of bangles, see Bonhams, Islamic and Indian Art, 24th April 2002, lot 325; and for a pair of bangles made for a child, see Christie’s, Islamic Art and Indian Miniatures, 28th April 1998, lot 363).

Source link

Filed Under: Bracelets, Medieval Tagged With: glass, gold, granulation, turquoise

Medieval Heart Brooch

Medieval Heart Brooch, c 1400 AD

Place of origin:
France (probably, made)
England, Great Britain (possibly, made)

Date:
ca. 1400 (made)

Artist/Maker:
unknown (production)

Materials and Techniques:
Gold

Museum number:
86-1899 (V&A Museum, London)

This heart-shaped brooch with its romantic inscription was given as a token of love. It would have been used to fasten a tunic, gown or cloak. Gold was the most costly of metals, generally used only by royalty and the nobility. It is inscribed and would have formerly been enamelled on the reverse in French, in black letter script, ‘Ourselves and all things at your whim’ (‘Nostre et tout ditz a vostre desier’). The design on the front of the brooch, possibly stylised leaves and flowers or feathers, would also have been colourfully enamelled.

Ring brooches often fastened garments with a slit at the neck. Both men and women used them. They first pulled the fabric through the ring. They then pushed the pin horizontally through the fabric. When they pulled the fabric back through the ring, it held the pin in place.

Source link

Filed Under: Brooches & Pins, Medieval Tagged With: gold

Medieval Amethyst Ring

416aa240a9e176669a3fdd725819b1e4

Medieval gold ring with amethyst crystals. Thirteenth century.

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: amethyst, gold

Merovingian Glass & Garnet Gold Ring

A Merovingian Glass and Garnet Gold Finger Ring

A MEROVINGIAN GLASS AND GARNET GOLD FINGER RING
circa 5th-6th century a.d.
The hoop round in section, with collared shoulders joined to the diamond-shaped bezel, which is divided into quadrants and set with alternating squares of blue and green glass, the corners of the bezel terminating in roundels set with cabochon garnets

Source link

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: garnet, glass, gold

Byzantine Garnet Ring

Gold and garnet ring

Gold and garnet ring, circa 5th-7th centuries. This type of ring could be produced by a barbaric jeweller (Goth?) or by a Byzantine workshop for barbaric customers. (auto-translation)

Source link

Gold and garnet ring

Gold and garnet ring

Gold and garnet ring (back)

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: Byzantine, garnet, gold, Goth

Medieval Amethyst Ring

13th/14th century amethyst ring

A 13th/14th century ring. The hexagonal slice of amethyst in a closed-back gold setting, ring size approximately P½

Found in North Yorkshire, treasure number 2010T674. The Crown’s interest in this ring has been disclaimed.

Source link

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: amethyst, gold

Gold and sapphire ring, European

Gold ring, the oval bezel set with a sapphire, with chased foliated shoulders, West Europe, 14th century

Gold ring, the oval bezel set with a sapphire, with chased foliated shoulders, West Europe, 14th century

Source link

Gold ring, the oval bezel set with a sapphire, with chased foliated shoulders, West Europe, 14th century

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: gold, sapphire

“Black Prince” Signet Ring

Signet ring of the “Black Prince”

Signet ring of the “Black Prince”
Second third of 14th century
Found at Montpensier, Puy-de-Dôme, in 1866
Gold, formerly gilded, ruby

Source link

Signet ring of the “Black Prince”

Detail, Signet ring of the “Black Prince”

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: gilding, gold, ruby

Anglo-Saxon Cabochon Ring

Anglo-Saxon Cabochon Ring

Cabochon Ring found in Leeds, West Yorkshire — an unusually large, complete and spectacular gold ring with a lozenge-shaped bezel set with a garnet gem. Anglo-Saxon pieces of such high quality are extremely rare. It was made to be displayed as a sign of great wealth and status and is in near perfect condition.

Source article

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: Anglo-Saxon, garnet, gold

Greek Sapphire Finger-Ring

Greek sapphire finger-ring

The ribbed octagonal hoop terminating in a six-petalled calyx and oval plate containing a sapphire within an irregular setting. Greece, circa 1400
Source link

Greek sapphire finger-ring

Greek sapphire finger-ring (in group)

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: gold, sapphire

Byzantine Gold Earrings

Byzantine Gold Earrings

6th–7th century, Byzantine. Gold, sapphire, pearl. These elegant earrings are decorated with pearls, a favorite jewel of the Byzantines. Sapphires, then called hyakinthoi (hyacinths), became popular in Byzantine jewelry in the sixth century.
Source link

Byzantine Gold Earring (front) Byzantine Gold Earring (back)

Filed Under: Earrings, Medieval Tagged With: Byzantine, gold, pearl, sapphire

Assiut’s Collar

The collar of Assiut, 400-600 AD.

The collar of Assiut, 400-600 AD.
Nothing known about this image.

Filed Under: Medieval, Necklaces Tagged With: gold, sapphire

Strickland Brooch

Strickland Brooch, Anglo Saxon, 9th century

Anglo Saxon, 9th century

Slightly convex bossed disc brooch of sheet silver with inlaid gold and niello ornament. The zoomorphic decoration is deeply carved and pierced to give an open-work effect. Within the beaded rim, a zone of alternate disc and lozenge patterns contains the main decorative field, which consists of a central hollow-sided cruciform design with a boss at its centre and animal-head terminals, with a quatrefoil, the cusps of which terminate in identical animal heads: all the heads are (or were) set with blue glass eyes and are interconnected by a beaded circle. This in turn creates subsidiary fields each containing a puppy-like Trewhiddle-style beast. Four more bosses lie towards the perimeter, behind the animal-heads on the quatrefoils. Numerous gold panels are hammered into the decoration and considerable use is made of speckling and beaded framing. A suspension or keeper loop is attached to one edge of the brooch, at right angles to the direction of the pin catch, only stubs of which remain. The back is otherwise plain.
Source link

Filed Under: Brooches & Pins, Medieval Tagged With: Anglo-Saxon, gold, silver

Anglo-Saxon Pendant

Pendant Anglo-Saxon, 7th century

Pendant Anglo-Saxon, 7th century The British Museum

Circular sheet gold pendant with a beaded wire rim and corrugated suspension loop. Three cloisonné birds’ heads with cabochon garnet eyes, arranged in the form of a triskele, radiate from a central garnet ring, which encloses a circular setting, now empty. Surrounding the ring are two concentric bands of filigree, edged with twisted wire, containing heart-shaped motifs, S-shaped scrolls and single granules with beaded wire collars.
Source link

Filed Under: Medieval, Pendants Tagged With: Anglo-Saxon, cloisonné, garnet, gold

Viking Gold Finger-Ring

Viking Gold FInger-Ring

Viking Gold finger-ring of 3 twisted wires meeting in flattened section at back (10thC – 11thC)

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: gold, Viking

Western European Sapphire Ring

Ring; Western European, gold set with a cabochon sapphire, circa 1300-1400

Ring; Western European, gold set with a cabochon sapphire, circa 1300-1400
Source link

Ring; Western European, gold set with a cabochon sapphire, circa 1300-1400

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: gold, sapphire

Anglo-Saxon Sapphire Ring

sapphire ring

Sapphire ring ‘belonged to Anglo-Saxon or Viking royalty’
Source links: Independent.co.uk | York.ac.uk | Yorkshire Museum (PDF version, no images)

Sapphire ring, alternate view

Filed Under: Medieval, Rings Tagged With: Anglo-Saxon, glass, gold, sapphire

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